Fashion Stories: London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017

London Fashion Week 2017/2018

Now darlings. Pre Fashion Week I was honoured to be invited by LALLA X RR @lalla_uk to attend the Wear The Walk showcase at Beaufort House Chelsea London town, to support her beautiful collection.  At Wear The Walk's wonderful fashion presentation where its exclusive collection of designers who are part of their designer clothing hiring service exhibited their latest collections. As I entered a wooden panelled hall, the location where the presentation would take place, preparations were in full swing; with models, make-up artists and designers finalising specifics for overall looks for each model. It’s such an interesting process and one I remember very well, when I was a studio assistant for Abe Hamilton. 



Displayed Handbags represented by the Wear The Walk Platform &
Ada Zanditon video presentation 
As I walked around the hall there was a display of a collection of handbags, which were very beautiful and practical, under the Wear The Walk umbrella.


But one brand whose name was openly displayed was Ada Zanditon Couture, worn by the likes of Daphne Guinness and Kate Nash.  Her garments, harnesses and headdresses greeted me, by the models wore a selection of her collection while they directing guests into the Beaufort House. Then a Zanditon head-dress and harness greeted me again as a video, that played (and also in the main fashion presentation) with a very alimental dressed woman, wearing an avant-garde (which was very other worldly) matching black decorative head dress and bodice. Her appearance; was an object of distinction, aimed at creating a clever benchmark of remembrance for the surrounding brand of handbags, which were displayed beside the playing video. Hello Ada Zanditon ...

Part of Ada Zanditon collection, also appeared in the main fashion presentation
As the guests arrived, there was a mix of fashion show regulars, bloggers and fashionistas, who eventually began sipping on mojitos until the early hours. 
Each collection was unique with a sophisticated edge or an entrance into an avant-garde noir, capsulating today’s ready-to-wear female wardrobe.



My favourite collections were futuristically elegant with geometric prints and clean-lines, that could be worn day or night. 

I also greatly enjoyed their beautiful modern-take on, summer dress fantasies with their like-minded cousins; beautiful see-through embroidered lace tailored suits. 

At selection of @lalla_uk collection at Wear The Walk presentation

Then onto this year's LFW 2017…

This seasons London Fashion Week of Spring Summer 2017 and Autumn Winter 2018, was one of urban fantasy with elements of sustainable fashion and traditional luxury.  It was an unexpected fashion week in parts, were as numerous designers chose to show in N.Y.F.W and M.F.W with a small number showing at L.F.W with a selective number showing in the showrooms, this season. These economic decisions are without doubt, strategic monetary survival planning of European and international designer brands.   One thing you can expect there are always changes in this industry and this continual choice to only show outside of L.F.W is still an unexpected trend. It’s almost like a mass exodus until the U.K’s B.R.E.X.I.T finalised plan is in place, and then more of the designer brands will exhibit again. But thankfully even, while these political negotiations continue LFW never disappoints.
I always embrace the unexpected with my the love of fashion and creativity of ‘what is new and always a passion for the unexpectedly adventure of seeing crafted garments and other wonders is an unfolding legacy’ of a designer. You have your expectation in relation to the cut of a fabric or experimentation of ideas, when you enter the world of the fashion presentations and collections. This is what drives you, as you explore and discover new ideas that are presented to you at L.F.W.
A few days before I visited the L.F.W showrooms; I was privileged to be invited by a friend @lalla_uk to the Vin + Omi collection. This was a world of art and social statement which each fashion show should be; a conversation of the times in which we live in,  a sustain fantasy spirit, which should always fuels our hearts. Oh a do love a great fashion adventure!



The beautiful collection by Vin + Omi was combined with the note on the invitation, that a special guest would be there, but apart from this; I was there for the adventure in garments that they would deliver.
Vin + Omi special  catwalk guest Deborah Harry

Tightly packed into an Liverpool Street hotel ballroom, the excitement was palpable; we all walked willingly into their acceptance of an eco-friendly, sexy avant-garde an experience of love and activism; my political fashion initiation was happily cemented. 
I have always followed avant-garde fashion, it's a release of undiluted expression of ideas, just as inspiring as any designer cut suit.This self-expression from the creative world is important. As we are constantly controlled and restricted by society, so this forced conformity, results in a greater need to expressive important statements, in our own way. 
We need to express our need to love and survive within this control, even if the government listens or not, this power of personal statement will reach the brave who challenge the status quo in society and this joint support for unity and identity, and in term of dispensing freedom within fashion and other forms of creativity to the enlighten and the uninitiated, bringing greater freedom of expression within injustice.
This collection reminded me of this statement, “freedom to live and to be free” of what is expected from each of the sexes; celebrating beauty of all forms is what fashion is about.





The main elements that reigned supreme for me as I watched the Vin + Omi collection; were the themes of announcing strength of belief and bravery of boldness.  Incorporating colour infused hypnotic design ideas with structured silhouettes and texture throughout. The male and female identities were blurred here as all models wore sculptural Korean and Japanese masks inspired face paint and lipstick, with even colour blocked make-up when a greater element of expression was needed. Vin + Omi use of modern and tradition make-up ideas were wonderful, they also experimented with the Hindi dancer inspired painted fingertips and contemporary hand jewellery, such a wealth of ideas was on show at their catwalk show.    


Matt Katz Bohen from Blondie 2017 Band Line Up



Contemporary combat jacket with textured silk chiffon Sleeves 
It was a very cultural Japanese inspired conception, which was exciting and beautiful to see.  There were no limits to this collections recycled designer fabrics where latex and sheer textiles were shown. Beautiful bodies were transformed into tapestries for each fabrics background, as the models walked down the catwalk. Baby doll dresses, high neck ruffle and sleeveless t-shirt dresses with bold prints; took us to punk street style heaven.
Vin +Omi Baby Doll Praire Dress with Hindi Dancer inspired painted finger tips
and Korean and Japanese face paint. 




Next to traditionally urban collective designed clothing such as bomber jackets and industrial textured trench coats were accompanied with bondage salon wear and lingerie created a beautiful eclectic mix of trenched army clothing wrapped up, side by side with perfect gender equal dresses and wrapped garment ensembles.
The bondage fabric trend appeared comfortably and happily with a beautiful flourish at the Vin + Omi show, environmental fabric of their type are used in expressive fashion wear and fabulous they are too. Its as if, all street cultural had met with a determined aim to take over fashion cultural with a defined statements that night, I loved it.

Recycled fabrics creating delicate lingerie 

Vin + Omi's Rubber fashion salon wear. A rubber swimsuit.


Diversity ruled clear and happy with male, female, and assexual models walking side by side on the catwalk, thank goodness for the continued emerging, liberation of gender equality and solidarity in fashion.

Next Stop L.F.W Show Rooms ...

As I walked with my fellow Quirky Gentleman partner in crime, into L.F.W and followed the winding staircase up to the showroom, every year I always have a rising anticipation of excitement, it is always a Narnia- like experience. Approaching that wardrobe because you dont know what creative wonder you will find.  After the initial excitement, our anticipation needs to follow one of the customary activities that always needs to be practiced. The traditional walk through, to take in all the surroundings displayed in front you, to let you curative your senses and experiences of everything in the LFW showrooms. As you step in, then you notice the white carpet, our yellow brick road to each designer collection.
This year, I was drawn to retro designs and future disco glam ideas and traditional classic pieces, that were given an additional authentic accent to create longevity and those in search of the hunger for that desire of aesthetics, is the most import aspect for any one, a customer or wholesaler, as we want to fulfil and search that creative narrative of our personality. But one thought I always keep in my arsenal, is to remember; its always said in the fashion industry the well cut, and the beauty of materials always, delivers, as I look at any collection, we must view the garment's wearable through a season for the day or night.
Noticeably and sadly this season; there was a limited amount of collections for me to select from this season's’ show-rooms at L.F.W, but gratefully and happily I always find a number of gems every London Fashion Week.
One of those designers who provided another fashion gem this season was; Jiw-on Ree of the brand; J.Won who is part of the Creative New-Wave Kocca, a collective of designers from Korea  .Her collection of retro metallic knitted t-shirts, skater life statements, of two colourways - gold and silver. These funky knits were very nostalgic and perfect for the retail and designer customer.


J.Won Retro T-shirt collection



Next on my shopping list of L.F.W goodies were further knits. This time it was from one of my favourite emerging designersFrench designer Susana Bettencourt whose geometric knits-wear, has a great transference of a cut garment, such a very futurist and clever crossover. Her clothing has such an energetic use of beautiful linear design, that is reminiscent of the 1980s cross between dance and leisurewear.  This season there was more of a grey tone palette present with elements of blue and green shades; a noticeable trend one of a retro influence, (which a number of designers who appeared at the L.F.W showroom showed this season) such influences are always a welcome, addition to any wardrobe.  


Susan Bettencourt New season's Collection

The next designer in partnership of Hong Hyewon and Ko In-hee that caught my attention this season was brand Helena and Kristie. They are part of the Korean Creative Content Agency called the Creative New-Wave Kocca (who I mentioned before) who consists of six brands who exhibit at the LFW show rooms each season.  This season Helena and Kristie displayed key pieces of their Spring Summer 2017/18 collection at L.F.W showrooms; a selection of sports casual wear trainers, of a comedic and pop art in their manner, which were gorgeous. As a fan of that style their trainers reminded me of Pop art sub cultures artwork and with its colouring from Japanese graphical art underground and contemporary artwork from New York Hip Hop Culture. Helena and Kristie trainers were a plain palette with a life story of amazing bold prints on a well sculptured casual sports shoe, straight out of an urban graffiti skate park or a isolate graphically sprayed street wall, just loved them. 


Trainers part of Helena and Kristie Summer 2017/2018 collection

This continued graphical feel of art contemporary was very present this year at L.F.W, deconstructive abstract art spilled onto specifically accessories. These elements of beauty were communicated and interpreted into combined classic forms, on such design IA London who brought its photographic negative styled artwork into my space this season, with large wrapped printed scarf, they were so modern which could be carried from season. Somewhat dark and gothic but all so relevant in it deliver and also another exciting use of digital art using existing elements was handbag designer Xena Lone used digital contemporary prints combined with origami, who explored another theme I spotted in fashion week which was continued fascination of natural, which I will be speaking about later in this blog piece.

IAF London's Gothic styled scarfs and wraps

Nicola Formichetti brand
NicoPanda was also present at the L.F.W showrooms this season, with a selection of his recent collection. It so important if you exhibit at L.F.W to have your key collection pieces on display or pieces that will create the most impact to a retailer, journalist and blogger which clever Mr Formichetti did.
The one piece that created the most drama for the beholder was NicoPanda’s named ‘Soho Coat’ fake fur coat accompanied with it Panda Maxi Scarf, all candy pink in colour. This coat was just too much fun, luxurious and soft like marshmallows, you could imagine the White Queen of Narina wearing it when she went out raving with her posse; especially if white was just too much for her that evening, or a New York clubber taking the ‘Soho Coat’ out for a spin at some exclusive underground club in the meatpacking district.

Nicopanda Soho Coat and Panda Maxi Scarf
Now, I do have a great love of the shape of lips. So any poster or art and design incorporating this image of the beauty of lips, always gets me attention and love, straightaway. So guess what I found in the show rooms, Yes! A ruby red lip ring by P By Panache, aw heaven, I slipped it on and watched its Marilyn Monroe piercing shining on my finger. P By Panache is a range of jewellery designed by Cha Sunyong attracting great attention from the likes of the K Pop music community, the British Museum and beyond. I do love lips xx 
Cha Sunyong Marilyn Monroe inspired Red Lip Ring

After my lip affair with the P By Panache, I spotted a very beautiful and traditionally designed backpack by Loxley England. Perfect and smooth in its contour, with a very plain blue leather, I just wanted it.
A quintessential British beautifully designed bag is a very wonderful thing, reminds me of traditional designed bags from the 1940s and 50s. Where practicality was key and smooth streamline aesthetics inspired by the technical drawings and the constructed aerodynamic design of cars and aeroplanes, great things. Love that blue Loxley backpack.


Loxley Backpack

Next door to the beautiful Loxley range, was the wonderful designer Eudon Choi's exhibitor’s stand, unexpectedly he was mainly displaying accessories and a few garments from his seasonal range, from his visible collection, part of his accessory range stopped me in my tracks. His beautiful and quirky leather barrels bags available in red, green, black and pale pink with delicate tassels at their opening lid and silver design cylinder plate at each end of the barrel design. Very futuristic and apocalyptic in its design choice, it reminds me of a person finding an item and creating field art out of necessity, I loved them. As you opened the bag, it held enough space for your bare essentials, a small purse, your keys, mobile phone and oyster card.  


Eudon Choi's Barrel leather Handbags

Next step for me was the jewellery and accessories show-room, always an exciting location for me; as I have been in love with jewellery before I could walk; I had my favourite wooden beads I wouldn't leave the house without, dedication to the form, or what!  So you can only imagine my excitement every season as I walk into the jewellery exhibitor’s sanctuary of all manner of unexpected beauty and wonder. 



Alexandrine Ni Jewellery Collection




As I walked along the white carpet, I find Alexandrine Ni Jewellery collection, beautifully created, solid glass vials and circular plates containing flowers wild flower, were incredibly satisfying. They almost looked like religious artefacts that were preserved for posterity, because of their sacred nature. As I researched Ni more I  found out she had worked with the likes of Alexander McQueen, and that her inspiration is centred around oriental classic art and nature and rebellion. I was glad that my sensibilities and fashion referencing resonated with her work making me felt connected with her flower vials as with all aspects of influence, it's a collective entity, a very inspiring thought as a I continued to admire her wonderfully captivating collection, intently.
Alexandre Ni pieces were so enchanting that I wanted to place an order for all of them, or charm my way into gaining one because of its beauty.  Ni jewellery showed the continued romance of the nature in fashion and beauty this is always present in some capacity within the design of clothing and accessories collections of designers at each season, within the global sphere of each fashion week. Natural has always been present in a practical and relevant way in the beauty industry such as retail companies like Lush cosmetics and most memorably Kailijumei cosmetics lipsticks.

Pixie Rose Lipstick and Lip Gloss
Image copyright Kailijumei Cosmetics. Photo by Meg Angela
Through designers such as Ni jewellery she have created the same intensity creating a kind of mystery and relevant in discovery of a product, making accessories more closer to nature.  The relationship with the beauty of nature is such a familiar friend, with floral trends continuing to evolve each season, which is such a welcoming sight amongst our fashion Narnia. 
I also happily spotted the cheeky and quirky designer accessories of Frances Wandsworth Jones with jaunty crowns and moustaches like characters from surreal pulp fiction stories or sketches on boy’s school exercise book, too much fun.    …..


Frances Wandsworth Jones jewellery piece; King
I walked through the room I didn’t scan all the exhibitors as the nature of jewellery is so different to the presence of a garment. With jewellery there is a more intricate other-worldly aesthetical existence. Which seduces you and it targets you with its presence, it's quite intoxicating. Such an orbital experience needs to be approached with great care and attention, as for me jewellery possess a connection to memories and natural elements of it making, but that’s up to the individuals’ interception. 
Happily I possess a fashion curious appetite which was appeased as I found more treasures to add to my reference bank of fashion lovelies.



Part of Xenab Lone Spring Summer 2018 collection;
their collaboration with artist William Farr 

Such a brand is Xenab Lone a beautiful accessories brand, who exhibited part of her special edition Spring Summer 2018 collection in the jewellery and accessories show-room. One pieces that captivated me was a wrapped white leather origami style bags (along with her other collection) which cleverly secured themselves neatly, decorated with contemporary designed photo flower abstracted prints, a winning new season collaboration working with artist and sculpture William Farr, which brought together such a digital inspired adventure of nature combined with elements of oriental styled anime, its was so satisfying to experience such a concept. 


Merve Bayindir's Pre-Madonna Collection; featuring their Grace Kelly hat. 

The next beauty that caught my eye within the jewellery and accessories shows-room was the beautiful occasion hats by Merve Bayindir and what a floral hat story is was.  A hat designer and milliner who originated from Turkey now based in London, the brand is a partnership of daughter; Yaasrmin Bayindir and mother Merve Bayindir who the company is named after.
The collection stole the show for me, was their SS18 collection called Pre Madonna, with its stunning hat called Grace Kelly, definitely it crowning glory. Where we are transported into a beautiful clear green pool of lily-pads and flown blossom decorating it surface, the most unstated and over stated hat I saw at LFW, I fall in love with it. Merle Bayindir's Grace Kelly hat is pure fantasy, just a dream.   

Half way through L.F.W it wouldn't be the same without my visit to Carolyn at Toni and Guy, kindly she found a way to fit me in for an appointment. Which was amazing and a real luxury for me, granted, a really happy one.  It's always a pleasure to speak to Carolyn and the stylists, as they always tell me and my fellow partner in crime, about the latest products, and with this then demonstrated them on my hair me annually, which is a privilege as Toni and Guy are experts, in their hair craft and work backstage as the main hairstylist of L.F.W.


Photographs of me at L.F.W's at Toni and Guy Salon;
 of me going through my hair transformation

My final hair look from the Toni and Guy Hair Salon at L.F.W 

label.m's Wonderful Protein Spray as used on my hair by their professionals;
Photographed at London Fashion Week Press Room, just say.

This season I was introduced to label.m
s Protein Spray which can used after you wash. You would apply the spray onto damp hair; along with oil serum and then blow-dry and style your hair either with a straightener or with tongs. The versatility of this product was fantastic, you can use the product on dry hair with an serum too, to create an silky smoothing effect and can be used by all hair types, a definite hero product, Toni & Guy doesn't disappoint.

The finale of my London Fashion Week visits seems to be the elemental visit to the Burberry Exhibition, which this season moved to the Farringdon, into a grand mansion house called the Old Sessions House. This season Burberrys exhibition was called 'Here We are', the title lived up to the  label's detailed and formulated ideology of how modern Britain became. Exploring how cultural and subcultural development up until today and has been influenced by many cultures ruled by the defined British class system from around the world were the Victoria Empire dominated through industry and trade.


Over blurred Neon display Saying the title of the Exhibition
 'Here We Are' 
As I entered the exhibition, I literally had a second life experience; it felt as through this was my residence, and everyone was just visiting my home. It was like walking into different dimensions of decades of dressing, in each corner of the mansion house.
Without a doubt the recent UK political climate was channelled into the inspiration of Burberry’s September 2017 seasonal collection, with references to post war England, British Etonian parties and the history of the traditionalism of the UK, this was demonstrated with Burberry check and using influential traditional upper class seasonal designs, like a fateful beloved cousin, that will be loyal to the family name and represented.  After being told by my fellow Quirky Gentleman, about Radio 4's interview with Christopher Bailey stating he belief in B.R.E.X.I.T, this reinforced my perceptions of the collection my fashion intelligent about the brand. As we all know, fashion houses always create a statements by fabric and the cut of a garment to signify their role in society and the fashion world. 

Another element of the collection which I enjoyed greatly was the second skin fabrics which were accessorised dresses, jumpers and with this season’s open-toe triangle heels; but in this instance as summer sandals and boots, mixed with selected coloured socks, who were worn by 1980s bands such as Bros. This gave the collection a traditional yet urban edge to a look, with an updated look of this decade dressed with feminine urban styling.


Burberry Tank tops




Variations of the triangle heel sandal in fabric Burberry check


As you walked into the house you were greeted with this seasons elegantly shot photographic campaign and a selection of casual-wear. Primarily Burberry’s classic knitwear collection that included jumpers, tank tops, dresses and tailored trousers accessorised with printed clutch bags.  




Out of this starter introduction to the collection, one piece that took centre stage for the men's wear collection was the ‘Car Coatas modeled by Billy Gilmour in this seasons campaign, photographed by the talented photographer Alasdair McLellan.  His beautifully photographed campaign, introduced the male and female Burberry story a few weeks before on Instagram with photos of footballer Billy Gilmour. 




Aerial view of Burberry's ground floor exhibition;
 with its 'Car Coat' to the left 

As we ascend up the staircase you were met by the collection of block coloured beautiful silk dresses combined with those darling; the second skin waterproof hooded outdoor coats. The collection of silk dresses with a graceful neck plunge, indeed one of my favourite pieces of the collection. 




Accessorised with the classic Burberry wool print socks styled with the gold and Burberry triangle heeled high scandals, they reminded me of that trend which always is so welcome to see, a touch of the urban disco chic, which I loved.


Triangle Gold Sandals with Burberry socks

 The colours of fabrics used, styling and garment construction of this collection, drifted between what is traditional of the aristocracy and what is of inclusive British culture. Such as future summer colours that you would see in wild seasonal flowers or in well groomed bed in a traditional British garden, and influences such as colonialism, war, patriotic ceremony and cultural fetish sub-culture.  These cultural references of the traditional and colonial life was greatly reflected in Burberry’s second collection of delicate dresses of many colours; which was inspired by traditional Indian sari lace dresses. The traditional inspired Indian modern dresses had brilliant replica embroidery, which I found was exquisite. Combined with a selection of raincoats including our new friends; the second-skin rubber modern raincoats, nostalgic acknowledgement of the traditional outdoor wear and fetish subculture, a continuation in this season’s SS17 and AW18 collections.


Second skin raincoats accompanied by Burberry's modern Sari 

This season fetish trend is being is very subtle within the high street and designer collections, the few designers who are experimenting with this second-skin fabric and its diverse properties include; Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Gucci and of course Burberry.   
Other beauties within the collection, which made me, begin talking to the garments as if they are entities with presents of their own. Were their classic black morning coats, they are so well structured, I was mesmerised and captivated by them and continued conversation with them, along with their traditional huntress shirts. 


Burberry Morning Coat and Huntress shirts



This element to the collection was very Etonian- like, as I said before, they were inspired by the traditional dress of the aristocracy and were a thunderbolt references, in relation to the current political climate and the result of the Brexit vote, and the importance of establishment of old principles established by the gentry. This use of political reference to demonstrate an publicised opinion in terms of what Burberry stands for as a British brand, was an outright statement of what the overall opinion of Christopher Bailey and how he see the brand future and its global presence. Giving life to an collection that was a political statement to what has made Britain flourish, and defining whose authorities and beliefs; which are operated and executed in the United Kingdom.
L.F.W 2017 collections revisited the past loved decades of;  fused retro futurists style and a prediction of designed future fashions. Including; barrel handbags, second skin raincoats and retro faux fur coats.






As we visited the showrooms and catwalks presentations, there was a resonance of the U.K's political climate and an acknowledgement of the good old days of our hedonist freedom of disco here and internationally.
L.F.W introduced bold conversations of what is traditional design, and in terms of referencing the importance how the England's understanding of established design accents, which have created a striving aim of perfection in creativity, in colour and construction which have influence the rest of the world, our designers and how their exports have established Britain as a founding legacy in the fashion in Europe and the rest of the world. Infused by what makes us a diverse country and creative industry, who is influenced by many cultures. A country who has rich and established roots both fashion and politics, who have other worldly entities who have created the foundations of the U.K in their own controversial way.

Words by Olga Chee-a-tow




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